When you think of Hiroshima then you probably first think of the horrific bombing that took place in 1945 and swiftly brought Japan’s exit from World War II. There is, however, much more to this city that has risen like a phoenix from its ashes to be a wonderful place to visit for a few days and a great base to explore the amazing surrounds of this western part of Japan.
Naturally, no trip here can be undertaken without thinking of the terrible effects of the nuclear bomb that was dropped on the city in 1945, and you will find poignant reminders and memorials to this across the city; visit and reflect on all this, but also take time to enjoy the other sights and experiences that you will find in and around the city.
Orientation
A relatively compact city with Japan’s largest tram network, coming from the Netherlands we love trams (nearly as much as bikes), as you know you will always go from A to B like a metro, but the bonus is that you get to see the sites above ground as you travel. Much of what you will want to visit is located in the central city – the Genbaku Dome, the Peace Memorial Park, Hiroshima Castle and Shukkeien Gardens and then a half day to Miyajima in the West of the city can be linked to with a tram. JR also provides a loop bus that JR pass holders can take to get you round some of the key sites.
Hotels here are quite palacious after coming from Tokyo or Kyoto and you will be able to find rooms that you can actually open your suitcase at the same time as being able to sleep on a fully sized bed along with getting all the accessories that you grow accustomed to in Japan. We stayed in the Mitsui Garden Hotel, although lacking a garden it was perfectly placed in the centre and a great base with plenty of restaurants around.
The ‘Little Boy’
The Genbaku (A Bomb) Dome is the one of the few surviving buildings from 1945, with a distinctive dome of what was a commercial exhibition hall, it remains so intact as the bomb (nicknamed the little boy) actually exploded 600m above the city and created a shock wave and heat that leveled the entire city;
the shape of the dome remained intact despite the floors and insides being destroyed along with those inside being killed instantly. You will probably want at least a couple of visits here – during the day but also at night where the reflection in the nearby river is suitably impressive.
A short walk to the south is the Peace Memorial Park with its must visit museum that will fully explain the bomb and all its effects both factual and heart-rending and where you will see the effects of the bomb;
the peace bell, the peace flame – which will remain alight until all nuclear bombs have been destroyed, the cenotaph and the peace memorial hall where you will find the memoirs of survivors of the bomb.
Miyajima
Heading from one UNESCO site to another, a trip to the west of the city on the tram will take you to Miyajumaguchi stop to pick up the JR ferry (free for JR pass holders) to Miyajima and the stunning Itsukushima Shrine with it’s ‘floating’ Tori Gate that rises up out of the water in the bay,
The tori can also can be walked up to and explored when the tide is out (so make sure you plan two trips to get both tide in and tide out).
Just like Nara you will find free roaming deer littering the surrounds and searching out treats and snacks from all the visitors;
and if you are lucky (as we were) perhaps a wedding with all its pomp and beautiful ceremony.
A visit to Miyajima is also great for a walking lunch, where you can pick-up any different snacks from the multitude of stalls as you wander the island – octopus tentacles,
fried oysters, grilled oysters, fish cakes, savoury and sweet momiji and lovely miyajima beer to go with it all.
Iwakani
Just 30 mins on from Miyajima by train and you’ll be able to visit the rolling, wooden Kintai Bridge that is very picturesque crossing the river and in the shadow of Iwakuni castle.
Crossing to the old samurai quarter on the far side of the river will reward you with a cornucopia of ice cream choices to reward yourself for taking the bus to get here from the train station (give yourself time in this little side trip to navigate the bus too).
The Hells of Beppu
A long distance day trip from Hiroshima (~700km round trip) is made possible by the unlimited shinkansen availability of your JR pass. On the face of it a rather excessive distance for a day trip, but if you are not going to specifically go to Oia province then this day trip is a must to experience the Hells of Beppu.
These hells are different onsen around the city that each have a unique feature that will put you in mind of a trip through Dante’s circles. Beppu is in fact one of the hot spring centres of the world,
2nd only to Yellowstone in how much water is spewn from the ground and with its nearly 3000 hot springs it accounts for 10% of Japan’s total. A visit to this area to relax into some of these onsen would be wonderful, but on this trip we were interested in 7 hellish spots,
these Onsen are more to look and experience rather than submerging yourself, but at some you will get to rest your weary feet or get a facial:
Onishibozo Jigoku – the hell of the monk’s head, where bubbling mud represents half domes of its holy namesake, here you can also dip your feet in an outdoor foot spa, as well as a full body steaming from the venting gases
Umi Jigoku – the sea hell, cobalt blue waters that were billowing clouds of steam, surrounded by atmospheric red tori gates that provided a great contrast of colour. Also more foot spa, although much hotter so you will exit with redder feet and lower legs.
Yama Jigoku – the mountain hell, more rugged with steam rising from between rocks.
Also with a rather sad and motley collection of caged animals and a hippo of all things…with mouth gaping wide, ready to receive vegetables and little children that fall over the railings.
Kamado Jigoku – the cooking pot hell. Here the gimmick is that you can buy eggs and cook them yourself in the kitchen of hell! You can also steam your feet and face as well as take in a show from a banzai showman who will demonstrate what happens when you smoke near this hell.
Oniyomi Jigoku – the monster mountain hell, where you will be greeted by the devil himself along with hundreds of crocodiles.
Shirake Jigoku – milk pond hell, as it says, plus a sideshow of aquarium that had prehistoric giant piranha
Chinoike Jigoku – blood pond hell, the oldest natural hot spring in Japan that is red from all the heated iron oxide
Totsumaki Jigoku – the spout hell, where every 30-40 minutes a geyser will erupt up to 50m (but more likely a bit less).
To make your way around hell you can pick up a bus from the train station ( Bus No. 2, 5, 41 or 43 headed towards Kannawa) where payment is worked out by what seems to be a game of bingo…all stops are lit and will get ticked off as you pass by and determining your price. The journey to and from Beppu is on the luxurious Sakara Hinkansen, with a change part way through onto the cooly named Sonic Express.
Hiroshima Food
The local dish is Okonomiyaki – a griddle cooked mix of flour paste, egg, vegetables and secret spices with a generous portion of oyster sauce.
Osaka also has its own version of this, but we have to say that Hiroshima’s was the winner when we had it at Okonomi-Mura which was a collection of stalls across multiple floors of a building, also called an amusement park of okonomiyaki.
Our other favourite place to eat was just by our hotel at Sakagura, shoes off and sushi in! More like a cosey little club than a restaurant, although expect to use a lot of pointing and miming unless you speak Japanese!
Enjoy!