One of the youngest nations in the World, Kosovo came into being in 2008 when it declared independence from Serbia. This separation followed a turbulent period in the 90’s that lead to the country coming under the protection of NATO and its Kosovo Force (KFOR). More than 15 years later there are still many countries that don’t recognise this small, landlocked country, but for us this is one place that is firmly on our list!
Despite its history, and the continued presence of barbed wire and peace keepers, Kosovo is in fact a very nice place to pass through as you visit this part of the world. Not huge in World scale sights but definitely having some beautiful countryside and quirky sights to see in Prishtina, Brezovice, Prizren and Peja.
We entered by car from Montenegro, to the west, be ready to purchase some additional insurance for your hire car (~15 eur) but not too many other restrictions to enter via this mountaintop border. From here it is a cruise down the mountain fueled by the innovatively named gas stations and the first stop on our mini tour – Prishtina.
Prishtina is not such an inspiring tourist city, but summertime blue skies and warm sun can make any place glow, and particularly from the panoramic restaurant terrace of the Hotel Sirius (where we stayed) you’ll get that holiday feeling, with the city of mosques and churches spread out below whilst enjoying a very nice dinner and the local Peja beer.
The city’s main sights take their lead from recent history with the NEWBORN monument representing the birth of this new nation, receiving a facelift every so often, when we visited it was sporting fluffy clouds and barbed wire.
One of the international heroes of the country is Bill Clinton, who spearheaded the end of the conflict in the 90’s and is thanked with his own monument and street. Along with freedom orientated hotels you may also come across a number of men called Tonibler, named after the British Prime Minister Tony Blair who also had a key role to bring Nato to the country.
To the south of the city you can visit the Monastery of Gracanica, with roots going back to the 6th century, as well as its impressive interior (be modest and no pictures please!) it also occupies a place of being the heart of the Serbian community in Kosovo…so expect a bit of security and local reference to you now being in ‘Southern Serbia’.
Head 20 mins further south and you can have some subterranean adventures at the Gadime Cave, at just 2 euros for the visit, don’t expect the mines of Moria, but it is a nice little tour, where the guide can give you some nice options of where to go after you finish the visit.
One such place was into the foothills of the Albanian Alps and the ski station of Brezovice – you’ll find old skool wooden chairlifts waiting for the new season to begin and verdant green slopes to imagine hurtling down.
Prizren is the historical capital of Kosovo and regraded as a museum city with all it’s aged sights to see…however for us we were unfortunate to time our short stop with a very large summer storm…and so we only have memories of passing through flooded streets…and Mother Theresa, who was vicariously linked to the city through her father that came from here.
Peja lies at the foot of the wonderfully named ‘Accursed Mountains’ seemingly created by the Devil who had been let out of Hell on a day-pass and wanted to create some mischief! The town itself is far from being accursed and when we arrived had a lovely holiday vibe to it…families on their evening promenade, nut sellers every 10 metres and a pretty little square bordered by the mountains…and home to the best beer in Kosovo!
We stayed at the Hotel Dukagjini that sits perfectly on the main square and with it’s rear on the river. Also with terraced balconies from which to enjoy the local view.
Nearby to Peja is another Serbian enclave of the Visoki Decani Monastery…once past the friendly soldiers of KFOR you’ll have a beautiful UNESCO monastery that is both peaceful and idyllic…but still no pictures please!
Our exit from Kosovo was via the aforementioned Accursed Mountains, but for us it was far from a curse but rather some of the best sights of Kosovo, with a winding canyon drive, the biggest waterfall in Kosovo – the White Drini Spring, and the sleeping beauty cave that even provides blankets to warm delicate visitors to ward of the underground chills.
Our trip to Kosovo finished with a wonderful lunch at Trofta Drinit that specialised in trout and picture perfect views…providing a three course lunch and drinks for just 7 euros 50! It also gave us the chance for one last Kosovan coffee that the locals say is the best in the world…so enjoy!