Dobar Dan Montenegro

Europe getting a bit too full over the summer period? Then head down south to one of Europe’s blissfully hidden but amazingly beautiful countries – Montenegro!

Our trip in July started in the wonderful sea city of Dubrovnik, Croatia where the summer holidays were in full swing and the city packed out every day. A must see city in itself, but for another blog.

Picking up a rental car and a green card for the insurance outside the EU (~50 eur) Montenegro is just 45 mins south drive and it’ll be like you are in a completely different part of the world from the tourist mecca of Dubrovnik.

Our route took us through the north west border with Croatia, along the southern fjords to the Venetian-esque Perast; further down to the walled harbour city of Kotor; the Ibiza of Montenegro – Budva; high end holidaying at Sveti Stefan; then into the Mountains and the stunning nature of Rijeka Crnojevica and it’s water lillied, meandering river;

heading north into the centre of the country we would skip the capital of Podgarica and instead go for the old capital of Centinje and its quaint vibe; venturing back into the northern nature spend a night in a mushroom at Kolasin ; from here you can make a detour into Kosovo for great fish and coffee (but little else) before heading back to the outdoors at Zaxdedfbljak which is a jump off point for rafting on the Tara River; one last orthordox experience at the Ostrog monastery, deep in the central mountains of the country before exiting into Bosnia and looping back into Croatia.

It does look like an exhausting itinerary, but the country is relatively small and hence quick to get around (particularly on the south coast).

So, taking a thankful breath after that itinerary, let;s dive a little deeper into these wonderful destinations. Starting with Perast.

The lonely Planet is not wrong when it says that Perast is like a little piece of Venice that has broken off and floated down the Adriatic to its resting place here. Already surrounded by the steep southern fjords it is a wonderful sight to see the beautiful Smekja palace perched by the waterside.

Stopping here, even in July and it will just be you and few other tourists that have left the Croatian hordes behind. Have a little wander around the narrow streets.

Then take a water taxi to Our Lady of the Rocks, a 5 min boat ride into the middle of the water in front. A church on an artificial island, created by the locals bring rocks from the mainland each year to keep things above water.

30 mins is enough here to visit and soak up some sun before heading back to shore and making your way further south.

Spend at least one night in Kotor, a walled city filled with a maze of cobbled streets and surprises at every corner.

We stayed at the homely Pearl Apartments that were perfectly placed in the centre (although you will have to carry your suitcases into the town from parking on the edge of the town as no cars are allowed).

Airy and light, with a great view and with a free mini bar and complimentary bottle of the local Vranec wine, plus a complimentary mobile phone from which to contact the hosts should you need.

Wander the alleys, nice and cooling on a hot day, before lunch at the Old Fish Restaurant on a lovely little square (there’s more than just fish).

If you want to stretch your legs a bit then a hike up and along the town’s battlements will reward you with stunning views high about the town.

With a winding cobbled path climbing up and up plan this walk in the morning when the sun is behind the mountain to make it for a cooler hike and better light for all those pictures.

Dinner has to be had at the Galion Restaurant in the port. It’s a little fancy, but with beautiful views across the water to the town and the best black risotto we have ever, ever had it is well worth a visit.

Further down the coast you’ll come to the high rises and glitz of Budva. It’s worth to push into the forest of concrete and visit the quaint old town of the city.

We saved our beach time for Sveti Stefan, a 15th Century fort that is now a super luxury hotel.

Unfortunately we did not get to stay, but you can sneak onto their private beach for a bit of a dip!

From here, turn away from the coast and into the hills and mountains above to head to the Skadar valley. Roads here are pretty narrow, so take it slow, and lookout for tortoises crossing the road that may need a helping hand.

The valley below is stunning, lily fringed river snaking it’s way up the valley.

Somehow we found our accommodation at Rooms Dujeva – lost in nature with the most amazing views and friendly hosts. Just make sure you get the GPS coordinates whilst you have internet connection.

Our hosts had limited english but plenty of hospitality.

After a refreshing dip in the river below

Our hosts made us a wonderful meal that continued with the great views we had been seeing all day with perfect placed tables outdoors. They make their own wine, which is free flowing…and it is potent stuff.

Make sure you visit the local village of Rijeka Crnojevica where you can pick up a boat to travel on the river (~30 eur for 45min).

Followed by a lovely lunch at the Stari Most for local trout and carp that is cooked super crispy!

Head to the old capital of the country – Cetinje – that is filled with old buildings and quaint museums. Far nicer than the bland boulevards of Podgorica.

Moving north and into the mountains for wonderful, winding roads that will bring you to Kolasin. There’s not to much here to see, as it is more of a stop off to head to Kosovo; but you do get to stay in wacky accommodation where you get to stay in a mushroom for the night!

Eat at the Old Water Mill and stock up with supplies for the morning’s breakfast.

Here is where you can divert off to Kosovo should you wish. We’ll save that excursion for another blog and rather pick up where we came back to Montengro and to the Tara Canyon.

Accommodation is a bit limited in the area, but you can try Zblajak. A visit here is more to go for some white water rating in the Tara canyon. A full on trip for a couple of hours, bouncing off rocks, spinning around, floating through the rapids and some stops for cliff jumping.