Buñol is a small village of about 10,000 people close to Valencia; its main tourist sights are a small castle and a pretty park that has outdoor concerts during the summer. Not really a tourist hotspot, but for the last wednesday of August each year the village tripples its population as 20,000 white clad party goers descend to partake in the world’s biggest food fight…La Tomatina!
La Tomatina, as the name suggests is all about tomatoes, and for an hour in the morning these thousands of revelers line the main street of the village and pelt one another with up to 150,000 kg of tomatoes that are launched from several municipal lorries that pass along the route.
Surely there is a profound reason behind the festival? Errr, no, it started as a tomato fight back in 1945
between some local farmers and has just grown from there to the unique festival that it is today that should be on everyone’s bucket list to experience. So lets get to the logistics on the event, as a bit of planning and preparation will help maximise your morning of mayhem.
Where to get tickets…
The event is limited to a mere 20,000 (pre ticket years saw up to 50,000 visitors that turned a bit chaotic!). There are a number of fakes websites so go for tomatina.es, where you can buy a number of variations of tickets (just the ticket, combined with a bus from Valencia, with a t-shirt, with drink etc.
You’ll get a voucher that is redeemed for a bracelet on the day either on your bus or at defined locations in Buñol. The latter pickup points are somewhat chaotic, but get there early and you’ll be rewarded with an easier start.
How / when to get there…
As above you can get a bus from Valencia included with your ticket…probably the easiest option as you’ll also have a guide to help you navigate everything. You can take a train, direct in just over an hour. You can also drive, as we did…the village is closed off and there is no big car park on the edge of town so you need to get there around 8am to find a spot just outside the village…just go as far into town as the police will let you and park up wherever you see a spot! It’ll be about a 15 min walk into town from here.
The tomato war kicks-off around 11 am, so you will need to give yourself time to find your way, get the tickets and get to your optimum spot.
What to wear / take…
White is a must! Also clothes that you would be happy to throw away at the end of the day…unless you like wearing pink.
Avoid flip-flops as your feet will get trodden on but also it gets very slippery out there. Some cheap Cons type trainers or crocs are a good option.
Swimming goggles are eye-savers, tomatoes are acidic and there is a chance of eye infection (also bring some eye wash for after), if you forget there are plenty of vendors on hand to sell to you some goggles at a nice price (3 eur). Silicon earplugs if you don’t want to be picking bits of tomato out of your ears for few days after. A waterproof case for your phone that you can hang around your neck…also 3 eur from the vendors on the day.
Selfie sticks are not allowed and will get confiscated, and don’t bother with a bag as it may also not make it through or will just get destroyed in the crowds and tomatoes. If you are driving, take several litres of water to wash yourself with after, plus you should take a bottle in with you.
Where to head to…
Depending on the colour bracelet you receive – yellow, red , green – this will determine your entrance to the route. Ours was the yellow Acceso San Luis entrance, at the far end of town from the train station, so a bit of a walk, but perfect for us (see below).
Once you have passed through the security gate at any of the entrances you can pretty much head to any part along the route. The epicentre is the Plaza del Pueblo, where you can attempt a climb of the greased pole to capture the ham at the top – when successfully done this will mark the start of the battle. You can imagine that this part of the route will be pretty packed, so if you want a little bit more space, like we did then find yourself a spot at one of the crossroads along Calle Cid that the route runs along. We found a perfect spot at the crossroads of Calle Cid and Calle Dr Juan Lopez, slightly raised up so that you get a view over the crowds and down the Calle, with a set of low railings that you can duck behind if the barrage becomes too much.
But also if you are higher up (tall Dutchies beware!) you are a prime target for those around you. Locals will also drench you with water from their rooftops which is great on a hot day (this spot does have good shade though). The tomato lorries also start from this end of town, so as soon as the first gun goes the battle is straight on!
The fight will last for about an hour, be prepared that tomatoes can hurt a bit, especially if you get hit on the face, so be nice to your fellow combatants by crushing the tomato before throwing. Once the final gun goes, all tomato missiles should stop.
At the end of the battle you’ll have ample opportunity to swim in the puree that layers the streets and the afterparty takes the rest of the day and night fueled with sangria and beer.
For us we had to get ourselves washed and on the road down south soon after so we will save the afterparty for next year.
Locals will happily hose you down for a small tip as you walk back through the village…a wise option lest the sun bakes the tomato on you like a vegetarian lasagne!
La tomatina is a unique experience that you really have to experience…we will see you there next year, tomato in hand…enjoy!!
