Busan is the beach city of South Korea and so after a week on the road we were looking forward to a few days of rest and relaxation and getting a bit of a suntan in a tropical place.
The weather had a different idea and decided that it was time to drop a load of rain on this part of the country for the whole period we were there.
So it was time to get creative and find some rain friendly activities to keep us busy for our 3 days.
Where to stay
Rain or no rain we would opt to stay more in the centre of town rather than at the beach, as there is much more to this great city than just sand and sea.
We based ourselves in the lively Seomyeon area at the perfectly located Arban hotel. A central connection point for the metro to take you across the city and right in the midst of all the restaurants and bars.
The hotel itself is a modern 4 star that is well put together and gives great views of the neon city below and Gamcheon in the distance.
Food glorious food…
If you are here when it’s raining then food and drink will play an even bigger part of your stay…and fortunately there is no better place in Korea to enjoy this escape from the rain, some of our favourites…
Just closeby the hotel at Suyeong Bonga Dwaeji-guk-bap for the local specialty of Dwaeji Gukbap (pork soup)…perfect for when it is cold and miserable outside.
In a bit of a lost location, but well worth the detour is Yeonhyojae makgeoli restaurant… trendy and local with super friendly hosts who gave us tastings of the champagne of makgeolli,
and north korean soju, along with tasty pancakes and cured meat.
Over at the port, the Jagalchi Fish Market is an attraction in itself even without the food, but be warned if you enjoy being in the sea and all its life then the shear amount of its creatures being washed up on these tables may be a little unnerving.
Upstairs you can order seafood that has just come through the door…super fresh
and with an expensive price to match (the restaurant area may look like a food hall where you meet new friends, but expect fine dining prices).
Be careful what you go for as the cooking style is natural and raw, and here raw can sometimes mean still moving!
Leaving the fish of the market behind you’ll find a plethora of Korean bbq to enjoy whenever you get hungry
and even some authentic japanese ramen if you want a more subtle taste.
Indoor Busan
Now onto some sights, with some great places to visit to keep you dry during heavy rains, the covered Bujeon market, with the usual sights and sounds of Korean markets.
The Busan Modern History Museum was diverting for 30 mins, giving an insight on how big a bunch of bad guys the Japanese have been to Korea over the years.
Next to the Trick Eye Museum…fantastic and well worth a rainy day. Where despite the rain we could fantasize about being in a warm and dry place.
and enjoy a spot of culture
Linked to Trick Eye is the Film Museum where you can fly around for 30 mins
to pick up the history of Korean cinema.
The ultimate rainy day hangout in Busan is Spaland at Shinsegae Centum City.
15k for 4 hrs, get the uniform and orientate yourselves in the shared area.
Even if you have prudish sensitivities, like Matt, then start your visit to the spa with a body scrub where you will be pounded and scrubbed (everywhere!) like a fish in the Jagalchi market.
After this you’ll be more comfortable to nonchalantly stride naked around the spa just like a local.
Outdoor Busan
If you do get a break in the weather then make sure you get out to these following places to mix in a bit of culture and colour.
Gamcheon culture village, an arresting sight to see all these brightly painted buildings place cascading down the hills above the city.
Plenty to see and do and even a bit of sun breaking through the clouds.
Super touristy, but still great for a visit with all its brightness, kitsch and poo bread!
Keeping with the theme, there are several coloured routes you can follow around the village, along with a good value map that you can purchase from tourist information.
Get here by metro to Toseong-Dong then either take a bus or put in some exercise with a steep walk up the hill, through winding alleyways and steps and you may even meet a little Prince.
The Haeundae beach is worth a look, even if its not sunbathing weather, just to dip our toes in the East Sea.
Do make sure that you head to Haedong Yonggung Temple, self professed to be the most beautiful temple in all of Korea
and rightly so, as it is set on a rocky shore with the sea crashing waves just below, it is quite stunning
but also quite busy with tourists, so pick your time (and try to come by car as it is not so convenient by public transport).
Heading out of Busan and to the north of the country, stop off at the tranquil Beomeo-sa temple
Set amid the green, tree filled mountains it is a big contrast to it’s seaside cousin and also much calmer in the numbers of tourists if you come during the week.
When we arrived the monks were gearing up for a local festival and were busy hanging all the lanterns
and generally fulfilling the purpose of this monastery to live a life of happiness and generosity.
So with a happy a warm feeling in our hearts we say goodbye to Busan (and to the rain) and start to head north to see what the East coast has in store for us…enjoy!
