The sunshine of southern Europe brought us a visit from some of our Filipino family to our place in Spain…hot and sunny, but still pleasantly cooler than the heat of the Philippines.
Back in the day, the Philippines was a colony of Spain for over 300 years, and so a visit to that once mother country for some Spanish cuisine and a shot of Catholicism gave us a perfect excuse for a little pilgrimage through the monasteries and churches of northern Spain, over the Pyrenees and into Lourdes.
And to experience the magic that is a holiday in Spain…
Climbing into a big van and hitting the road, like a vacationing A-Team
we made a route from our base in La Barraca de Auguas Vivas, up through Valencia, into the plains of Aragon, through Teruel, overnight in Zaragoza and then the roller-coaster ride through the Pyrenees and into Lourdes.
La Barraca de Auguas Vivas itself is home to its own little miracle where in the valley centuries ago an image of the Madonna was found by farmers tilling the fields; taken to the local monks it was proclaimed a miracle and has been celebrated in the valley each October since.
A trip like this requires some energy, luckily our local bar does huge portions of paella and fiduea, cooked on wooden fires
that for a very reasonable price you can pick up for take away (a small deposit on the pan) to enjoy at home. Perfect for to celebrate the birthday of our nephew-in-law Mike.
Suitably prepared, the roadtrip started in earnest at the nearby village of Simat where the beautifully dilapidated monastery of Santa María de la Valldigna
a blissfully quiet place that feels untouched by tourism, in the midst of orange groves and fountains.
Moving to the coast and the summer city of Cullera, with a big beach and even bigger high rises.
Towering above these buildings is the hilltop castle of Cullera and its beautiful little sanctuary of the Virgin of the Castle where you can have some stunning views whilst lighting your votive candles.
A trip into Valencia should be given at least several days, but for the faithful on a pilgrimage, a beeline should be made to the Cathedral where you can find the holy grail,
no need to guess the answers to riddles or dodge killer traps, just pay 8 eur and it will be revealed to you (or go on a sunday for a free visit!).
There is so much more to do and see in Valencia, including a visit to its City of Sciences with its gleaming modernistic ‘cathedrals’ of the future, but we shall keep that for a blog devoted just to this great city.
Back on the road and heading into the high plains of Aragon and you will come to Teruel, a Mudejar city that perches on the side of a valley. Enter through the ornate Escalinata del Ovalo
that will then lead to the huge Mudejar Towers that guard the entrance to the city.
Inside you’ll find the pretty Plaza del Torico and the monument to the love story of les Amantes (Teruel’s answer to Romeo and Juliet).
Be aware that Teruel really follows an afternoon siesta, so if you arrive between 2-4 (which we always seem to do) then most of the sights will be closed! Leave the city via its Roman aqueduct.
A must-do detour from Teruel is Albarracin, 30 minutes into the hills and you will come to such a beautiful walled town that occupies a number of adjacent hills that makes for a stunning sight to see.
Climb the many stairs to the upper town and find yourself in the heart of a quaint, pedestrianised town square that outside of weekends, you will have all to yourselves.
Wander the maze of cobbled streets and make your way up the secret, flowery paths to the Parroquia de Santa María y Santiago church where the views get even better of this miniature Rome of many hills.
Stop at the Escher like picture-perfect house of Casa de la Julianeta, from all the way back in the 14th Century.
Go to the back of this main town hill and cross and ascend to the cathedral…a much better site from afar, but still worth a visit for its own view.
With the long afternoon starting to wane, and the A-Team on siesta, we headed for our home for the night of Zaragoza.
As we were 8, we opted to rent an apartment just off Pilar square…perfectly located for great views of the basilica…but not so great for sleeping with the 24-hour nightlife of Friday night Zaragoza echoing up to our rooms.
Nonetheless the church to visit here you will see from miles away as you approach the city, the gargantuan Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.
The place to worship this building is from across the river to get a perfect reflection and from the stone bridge that gives a perfect view of sunset and the church
Dinner can be had in one of the many tapas bars of Casco Antiguo where the choice and quality is plenty.
A new day and further north we go, into the Pyrenees. Approaching from the Spanish side is a very relaxed and pleasant experience…slowly winding your way up to almost 2000 metres, past beautiful lakes and snow-capped mountains
until you reach the Frontera del Portalet and into France.
From here you descend into a wild roller coaster ride into France. Narrow switchback roads, that has Matt clenching everything as he had to squeeze past cars,
camper vans, wannabe Tour de Francers and hordes of sheep making their way up the mountain to the summer pastures.
Finally back down to sea level and you’ll have about another hour to the destination of our pilgrimage…Lourdes.
Lyssa and her family had visited here some years ago and were a bit shocked to find how busy and touristy this font of miracles had become…where you can buy 5 litre jugs of holy water to go with your Bernadette tea towel .
Nonetheless it is still a beautiful and amazing place to visit and despite all the tourism you will see very few tourists, but rather true believers who visit for the wonder of the many miracles that have taken place here.
As well as looking for miracles, do take some time to appreciate the Rosary Basilica with all its golden splendour and sweeping staircases.
Finish your visit by taking some water from the spring (perhaps even a healing dip in its waters) and worship along side the rock cave of the sanctuary.
So that’s our quick little pilgrimage with the family pretty much done, just 6 hours if you drive direct from Valencia but worthwhile to take a few days and see the sights along the way. Unless, like Lyssa you prefer to fly…
…enjoy!