After all our recent city trips Lyssa was pining for a bit of a beach holiday; with just a long weekend, we opted for the Caribbean island of Europe…Sardinia.

With over two thousand kms of coastline and nearly all of it littered with sandy coves surrounded by azure waters and bathed in the glorious Mediterranean sun, this was definitely the place for a beach holiday.

Sardinia is about 360 km off the coast of Italy just under Corsica. Unlike its French neighbour, this island is very much Italian..you’ll understand this right at the airport when you see that even the vending machines are very serious about their coffee!

It’s an island but by no means small, so the 4.5 days we had here would not stretch to visiting the whole island, so we opted to cover just the western side.

Flying into Cagliari, we immediately crossed the island and headed north to first base ourselves in Alghero, a couple of nights here to explore the north west (it’s better to cover the island’s most popular beaches here when it is not the weekend) and then hugging the coastline descending south to Portoscuso for 2 more nights of exploring the beaches of the south west.

In driving up and down the west coast, it seems that google maps is conspiring with the island to take you along some of the most scenically beautiful roads we have ever traveled, eschewing the more direct highways that would get us where we needed to be faster, but less fulfilled.

Alghero is a wonderful base, a fortified town with sea walls that surround the city and with every view primed for the perfect sunset.

We stayed at the Carlos V, 10 mins out of the centre in its own little cove and a blissful walk along the promenade onto town.

Our two nights here were rewarded with great food…first at the seafood heaven of Nautilus (the tuna and spaghetti vongoli is to die for!)

with a picture perfect terrace overlooking the harbour and then at La Saletta for some traditional delicious sardinian suckling pig.

Along the sea walls of the town you’ll have numerous spots for a refreshing apperol spritz, to watch both the sunset and the locals on their evening promenade.

Alghero puts you within an hour of Sardinia’s most stunning beaches at Stintino…specifically La Pelosa.

Coming in July you have to try to visit mid week whilst the locals are still working, but even then getting here after 11am will mean a fight for the last few parking spaces, and literally walking across all the umbrellas to get your own spot on the beach.

Nonetheless, the beach is still a stunning must visit, with swimming pool water that will make you believe you are in Bonnaire or Curacao. 

Bring some snorkeling gear, there isn’t much coral, but still plenty of sealife to keep you occupied.

If you arrive a little later, or leave early and you want some more peaceful parts of this stunning coastline then stop for lunch at L’Ancora Porticciolo which, as well as private parking and a secluded waterfront with the same beautiful water also has great pizza and the local specialty of Fregula

There is also a panoramic route into Stintino that will take you to some coves so uninhabited that you’ll think you have been transported into low season.

Whilst in the north, give yourself some time to visit the colourful Castelsardo, and its own busy little city beach.

Our 2nd full day had us journeying down south to Portoscuso, stopping off at some must see locations at Bosa, Arutas, Pipino and Calla Domestica.

It was a Saturday and the roads were suspiciously empty and all places we passed through seemed like a deserted wild west ghost town, as if the whole of Sardinia had partied a bit too hard the night before and decided to spend the day in bed.

You’ll actually discover the the whole island has packed up their umbrellas, tents and inflatables and gone to the beach!

This makes a detour to Bosa a lovely experience that you will have to yourselves…a cobbled ancient town, overlooked by a hill ringed with colourful houses and crowned with its castle.

Back to the beaches, and weekend planning requires some of the remoter ones if you want some beach space. Is Arutas is on a western promontory that needs a couple of hours and some dusty sands roads to get to, but you’ll be rewarded with a wild, long beach with enough space for hundreds.

The waves were a bit choppy when we visited, bit the water crystalline and unique sand made up of tiny quartz pebbles.

Further south and over the winding roads of the mountains and you’ll come to our favourite beach of the trip…Cala Domestica.

Down a narrow gorge that ends at a small car park (4pm arrival worked perfectly for us to get some parking)

and you will have a beautiful cove beach that is not too busy and nicely protected from the open sea.

The cove creates nice waves that give a lot of fun to dive into. Don’t be surprised to see locals scrambling along the cove walls with all their beach gear into what looks like a cave, in fact this leads to a second ‘secret’ cove that is much calmer and more secluded.

If endless stretches of golden, hot sand is more your thing then 15 mins to the north is the expansive Is Pepino.

Portoscuso makes a good base for the south western leg of the trip. With its own pretty little cove beach that would be a main attraction on any other country. 

Here we stayed at Hotel Lido Degli Spagnoli a bit out of town, but close to the beach and with all rooms having a beautiful view of the sea and sunset from the balcony.

The town itself seems somewhat sleepy at the edges, but if you are there on Saturday night, you’ll find everyone on town, 70s outdoor disco, a local market and live outdoor karaoke…

On quieter nights head to Musciana for wonderful seafood overlooking the harbour…the Portoscuso Tuna is so tasty…made with tomato and onion.

Save room for desert and a visit to the Port Gelateria and fight to get your order in for this wonderful ice cream.

Pushing further south west and the Chia area will give you two wonderful beaches within walking distance.

The busier is Sa Colonia, finer sand and a great spot to fall asleep to the sing song lilt of Italian families chatting their way through their day at the beach.

Over the headland is Su Porto, a bit more relaxed with some great snorkeling around multiple coves and even some swim thrus.

With an afternoon flight on our last day we chose to have a look at Cagliari’s Poetto beach…an 8km strech of golden sand that is well worth stopping by for a quick dip in the sea.

Just behind are the salinas of Molentargius where you can find some flamingos to complete that Caribbean feel.

Head to Cagliari old town for a little culture, cobbled streets, the Bastione Saint Remy

and the Cathedral and its ornate crypt

followed by one last serving of authentic pizza and pasta before you head to the airport.

These are bit a tiny handful of Sardinia’s beaches and sights in the west…4.5 days was nowhere near enough but great for a short taster of endless Sardinia, we shall definitely be back.

Enjoy!