Welcome to Athens, the birthplace of democracy, philosophy, and gyros. With its rich history and vibrant culture, this city has something to offer for every type of traveler. But with only 72 hours to explore, you may be wondering how to make the most of your time. Fear not, fellow explorers, for we have embarked on an Athenian Odyssey and have some tips and tricks to share with you.

First things first, let’s talk about the weather. Autumn in Athens is a magical time, with mild temperatures and fewer crowds. You won’t be facing the full force of the summer heat, but don’t leave all those summer clothes behind just yet, as you may get a period (as we did) where the temperatures are in the mid 20’s and you’ll be wanting shorts and t-shirts.

Where to stay

Central Athens is quite manageable on foot, so wherever you choose you’ll never be far away from a spot that you want to get to, plus the metro links up key points, so if your feet are tired you can always let the train take the strain.

If you want pictoresque then head to Plaka, well-heeled then Kolonaki, hustle and bustle is provided by Monastiraki, and the hipsters will be in Psyri. Central to all these areas is Syntagma Square and this was where we spent a few glorious days at the most excellent Athens Capital Center Hotel – MGallery Collection. Perched on one of the sparkling, main transport arteries of Athens the hotel provides a wonderful experience, a stunning rooftop bar and pool, amazing breakfasts that will fill you up for the day of exploration, gorgeous rooms and nice little welcome gifts of wine, chocolates and olive oil. This hotel is a holiday in itself!

0-24 Hours: Akropolis, Areopagus, Monasteri

Flying in late the night before, we gave ourselves a little lie in to enjoy the room, skipped breakfast and instead went for a Gyros brunch at the leafy outdoor terrace of O Thanasis. A perfect way to start the day! Heading down the bustling shopping centre of Ermou, past the Koulouri sellers (tasty sesame bread rings), listening to the street musicians you’ll be constantly in-sight of today’s target – the Akropolis.

The most iconic landmark in Athens, if you are coming in summer, then make sure you book your tickets in advance (from the Hellenic Heritage site…it looks fake but really isn’t! ), in October things are a bit calmer and you don’t have to necessarily book and can give yourself a bit more flexibility. As you make your way up the hill, be prepared for some serious leg day workout, but take your time, enjoy the views and soak in the millennia of history.

On your way back down, be sure to divert across to Areopagus Hill, said to be the court in which Poseidon indicted Ares for killing his son, it is now a popular picnic spot to get stunning views of the Akropolis and for sunset vistas.

Despite the late brunch we had the mid-afternoon munchies after all this touring, not quite ready for a full meal but needing something tasty to keep us going – Greece has this covered with a multitude of pastry and coffee shops that have a whole host of treats – spanokopita (spinach cheese pie) and baklava were our rewards!

Matt now had the pastry fueled energy to embark on one of the most exhausting aspects of travel…souvenir buying! Normally an end of trip activity, but we pulled it forward to make sure we were not faced with closed shops later on! With Lyssa leading the way Athens made this a relatively easy task with a multitude of options, the Monasteri Flea Market (be sure to head all the way down to the end, past the more modern day tourist tat shops), leather goods, olives, baklava, spices, bouzouki.

One shopping treat (even for Matt) is to visit Manopoulos to pick up a hand-crafted backgammon board. Ever since covid and lockdown backgammon has been our ongoing household game and playing on a top quality Greek board is a must…also learning the other variants of Greek backgammon that heat the competition up!

As night falls (early at this time of year) pass by the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier to witness the ‘little changing’ of the guard that takes place every hour, at this time / time of year you may have the guards all to yourself as they do their complex routines and perfect balancing acts.

Night-time and the first of our dinner treats! Head a little way out of the centre to Kouvelos for excellent, and long lived Greek food (serving for nearly 120 years!) in a beautiful garden setting.

With the night still young, head to the rooftop bar of the MGallery hotel to both enjoy the view and the cocktails!

24 – 48 Hours: Olympian dreams, Plaka, Agoras and Michelin stars

Today was going to be a day off for Matt as we were taking the Athens Free Tour, so we set ourselves into follow and listen mode under the glorious Greek sun. It’s not all relaxation however, as the tour will literally cover all corners of the city and our fast talking and fast walking Irish guide definitely put us through our paces! Starting at Manou Rallous and its church of the Holy Trinity, then across the road and into the park to the Zappeion Hall , named after the founder of the Olympics and home of frustrated security staff that will try to keep you out!

To the Olympic stadium, aka the Panathenaic Stadium, also known as the Kallimarmaro. This is the only stadium in the world built entirely out of marble and was the site of the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. Take a lap around the track and imagine the roar of the crowd as you cross the finish line.

The route then follows up one of Athens’ most high end and secure streets – Irodou Attikou – home of both the President and the Prime Minister of Greece. If you get to the top of this street just before the hour then you can fall into formation with the President’s guard to follow them around to the Tomb and the ‘small changing’…just don’t get too close and never in front as they will walk over you!

Down Ermou, a stop at the ever collapsing Metropolitan Church (that has pretty much fallen down during each earthquake to hit the city) and next to it the rather more sturdy and ancient Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos and Saint Eleutherius.

Back up the hill to the Akropolis, passing through the colourful Plaka neighbourhood and the maze like alleyways of Anafiotika. 10,000 steps banked and not even lunchtime!

Matt was now back on the clock for the remainder of the day, so from the heights of the Akropolis it was an easy stroll downhill to the bustling restaurants of Adrianoy. Dióskouroi fed us with very decent taramasalata, gyros and fine tasting retsina all in glorious hot sun.

The sun was soon fleeting and by the time we got into the ancient agora, black clouds were forming that portended rain…but it held off to allow us to visit the heart of historic Athens, where people gathered to discuss politics, philosophy, and trade. And don’t forget to snap a photo with the Temple of Hephaestus, one of the best-preserved ancient Greek temples.

A quick visit to the oldest house in anthens – the Benizelos Mansion and then culture was done and it was back to shopping, magnets, baklava, olives followed by a celebratory drink at the famous distillery of Brettos, for traditional Greek spirits and wine and olive tasting.

It was dinnertime again, and culinary highlight of the weekend goes to The Zillers Roof Garden, with a stunning view of both the Akropolis and the Metropolitan Church and Michelin starred food that almost beats the view!

48 – 72 Hours: Presidential parades, Lycabettus Hill and Psyri

After a long Sunday morning breakfast make sure you are in good time to get across the road to Parliament to stake out your spot to watch the spectacle that is the Grand Change of the presidential guard. 11am every Sunday where the whole of the guard and their band come marching out into the streets. Even in November getting a good spot near the action will be tricky, but there is a perfect vantage point for the parade on the traffic island as you cross the road of Leof. Vasilissis Sofias…here you will be so close to the marching columns that you’ll feel the breeze of their swinging arms and feet as they march past!

After this impressive spectacle, take a slower march yourself up Lycabettus Hill, the highest point in Athens and naturally giving splendid views of the city and the sea beyond. Although your legs may not thank us for it, we would recommend skipping the funicular that goes up and down the hill…just 3 minutes in a dark tunnel (no views) for 10 euros is one of the rare overpriced things about Athens and not really worth it.

Enjoying the views as you descend the hill, head a bit further out of town to the Dromeas (The Runner), for some suitably sporty action shots.

Catch the metro back into town and spend the remains of your afternoon (and stay) exploring the flea market of Monasteri and the colourful streets of Psyri where it seems to be Christmas…even if it is still firmly November.

So with the Netherlands beckoning us home, it was time to say ευχαριστώ to this most wonderful of European capitals. Enjoy!